The Great Debate

Is it sauce or is it Sunday Gravy?

This has been a long standing argument among Italians and in our family for decades. Here it is......

Sauce =Sugo is without meat and quick cooking time

Sunday "Gravy" is an all day process and is a long cooking sauce with meat - lots and lots of meat.

Here is is Sunday Gravy according to ME

"Sunday Gravy Secondi Mia"

9 -28 oz cans Crushed Tomatoes (preferably San Marzano )
2- 6 oz cans Tomato Paste
Lots of Olive Oil
3 medium(not large) sweet onion

(like Vidalia), minced fine
6 cloves garlic, minced fine/ plus 2 more whole smashed cloves
2 good handfuls (about 1 cup ) grated cheese( not the kind in the green container:)
1 T. crushed red pepper flakes
2 T. sweet basil, divided
2 T. oregano, divided
1 small handful sugar
1 glass of red wine – about 1 1/2 C.
1 rind of the cheese tied with a string to the side of the pot
Salt to taste
Water as needed and directed
3-4 bay leaves
Meat:
1 1/2 pounds pork (you can use chops or ribs)
1 1/2 pounds beef (ribs are good )
1 piece lamb chop
Braciole (pork or beef )- recipe to follow
Sausage (hot or sweet or both )
Meatballs- recipe to follow
Dry Rigatoni or Ziti ( I like DeCecco)
ALLORA: Are you ready?

FIRST: Make sure you turn on the Italian Music. It helps set the mood to make gravy. I like to listen to “Mob Hits” , Bella Luna, Dean Martin or Big Night.

THEN: Take off that white shirt you are wearing….Are you crazy?

NEXT: Pull out your biggest, heaviest pot. Listen… if you have a thin bottom pot, your next step is to go to the store and buy a new one. If the pot is too thin the gravy will burn and be ruined. That would be a pity eh?

OKAY… NOW: It is helpful to have everything chopped and ready to go. The French call this mise en place, but the Italians call it “Being Smart”

Put your big pot on the stove, but don’t heat the pot just yet. Add about 1 cup of oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the 2 whole crushed garlic cloves. Now you just want to let the garlic take a bath in the oil to infuse the flavors, Capisco?

This is the 1st of many valuable secrets to making gravy secondo me.

NEXT: Heat the pan with the oil and garlic. Sprinkle the beef , pork and lamb chop with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot- Listen Darlings, DON’T BURN THE GARLIC OR IT WILL BECOME BITTER. Add the meat a few pieces at a time so you don’t crowd the pan and cook it in batches browning on all sides (about 5 minutes )

Remove the meat and put it in a big bowl or platter and now we can move on…

Remove the garlic pieces when they get brown, but remember before they burn.

Then: Lower the heat to medium and add the chopped onion. Cook this a few minutes and then add the chopped garlic  When you see bubbles forming around the garlic lower the heat a little more to medium- low. Now you are simmering this for about 5 minutes.

You can now throw in the crushed red pepper, 1 T. oregano and 1 T. basil, a little salt and pepper. CHEF TIP AND ANOTHER SECRET: when you add the dried spices, if you rub them in the palm of your hand to grind them, that will release the flavor even more.

Give this all a good mix.

NOW: Add the first can of tomato paste and scrape it good. Fill the can with water and give it a twirl and add this to the pot. Give this another good stir and then turn the heat back up to medium- high. Stir this constantly for about 5 minutes. This is a very important step in making gravy… This is what we call the Italian Roux.

NEXT STEP: Add your lamb chop, pork and beef back to the pot with all the juices that collected in the bottom of the bowl. Coat all the meat with the mixture in the pot. When it starts to stick a little in the bottom of the pan, this is when you add 1/2 a glass of red wine. (Okay for the wine, please honey do not use a wine you wouldn’t drink alone) I like to use a nice Chianti Classico) Now you are deglazing the pan…. BRAVI!

NEXT: PAY ATTENTION! You are going to add the crushed tomatoes. But…

Do it this way- Empty all the cans, take your 1st can and fill it half full with water,

Give it a good twirl to release any of the precious goodies from the side of the can. Empty this into the 2nd can and give the Second can a good twirl to release those goodies and then dump it into the pot. Put can 1 and 2 in the recycling bin. Repeat this process with the 3rd and 4th can, and so on…But now you have one can left eh ? Okay number 9 . Fill with just enough water to release the tomatoes and then dump that into the pot. If you are not totally confused and are very good at math, you should have added about 76 oz of water (including the 6 oz can from the paste) this is give or take a few ounces…..

Don’t Stress Darlings, you are doing great!

Make sure you mix well and leave it to cook for about 15 minutes half covered. Make sure you stir this every 5 minutes or so after it starts to bubble.

THEN: Add your grated cheese and also the rind tied with the string. (Attach this to the handle of the pot so you can find it easily at the end.

NOW THE 3rd SECERET: It is time to add the bay leaves. I am not sure if this was a secret, superstition or just having a little fun, but it is a step I never skip.

Take your bay leaves and throw them over your left shoulder and see if you can hit the pot! BRAVI!

NEXT: Add the other can of tomato paste and put the rest of the red wine in the can and give that a twirl. At this point add the sugar. Mix well again and keep the gravy at a medium- heat and cover the pan half way. Be sure that it is not at a rapid boil (a little boil is OK) and also….Remember, you are still giving it a stir so it doesn’t burn on the bottom.

Okay , now take another deep breath, take a sip of wine, mambo italiano if you wish, wipe your forehead……because now we must get busy with the braciole, meatballs and sausage. You didn’t think you were done did you?

Braciole

If you are making the braciole (not required, but it sure makes the gravy fabulous ) This is the point you would make it….

1 1/2 cups milk
2 cups bread cubes (1/2-inch), cut from day-old bread with crusts removed
(I like to use Ciabatta )
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
1-2 garlic clove, chopped fine
2 lbs. beef bottom round, cut into 12 slices, each about 1/2 inch thick (see Note)
12 slices Prosciutto di Parma (about 6 ounces)
1/4 lb. imported provolone cheese, cut into long sticks
Salt and Fresh ground pepper
• Pour the milk into a medium bowl, add the bread cubes and let soak until the bread is very soft, 20 minutes. Squeeze out excess milk from the bread cubes with your hands and return the bread to the bowl.
• You can save the excess milk for your meatballs. And hey, don’t forget to stir the gravy.
• Stir in the parsley, Parmigiano-Reggiano, raisins, pine nuts and garlic.Mix well and set aside.
• With a heavy meat mallet or big fry pan, pound each slice of beef round to a thickness of about 1/4 inch. Arrange one of the pounded meat slices in front of you with the short side closest to you. Top with a slice of prosciutto and tap the prosciutto with the back side of a knife so it adheres to the beef.
• Spread 2 tablespoons of the stuffing over the prosciutto, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Place a stick of provolone crosswise over the edge of the stuffing closest to you. Fold the border closest to you over the provolone, then fold the side borders in to overlap the edges of the stuffing. Roll into a compact roll. Secure with kitchen twine and repeat process, then season the rolls with salt and pepper.
• Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy pan over medium heat. Add as many of the braciole as will fit in a single layer and cook, turning the braciole as necessary, until golden on all sides, about 7 minutes. If necessary, repeat with any remaining braciole. Remember don’t crowd the pan.
• Pour some wine (yes, more wine ) about 1/2 cup into the pan, bring to a boil to deglaze the goodies off the bottom and cook until most of the wine has evaporated. Add everything from this pan to the gravy. This must cook about 2 hours , so it is tender….
• NOTE: The slices of beef should measure about 4 to 5 inches on each side before pounding. To obtain pieces of the right size, look for -- or ask your butcher to cut -- six 1/2-inch-thick slices from a whole bottom round, then cut those slices crosswise into two pieces. You could also use flank steak if you prefer or even pork to make pork braciole.
Okay, stir the sauce and now it is time to make the meatballs….
We are almost done, but Mamma Mia doesn’t the house smell like “love” already?
Are you having fun yet?
Okay, the meatballs…… There was a little Italian Lady who lived across the street from me when I was a kid, Loretta. I can still smell her Sunday Gravy and taste her meatballs as if it was yesterday. Loretta was the one who taught me to put in the secret ingredient to my meatballs and I think of her each time I do!
This recipe makes about 3 dozen pretty good size meatballs.

Meatballs

1 pound each for a total of 3 pounds
Ground beef, veal and pork.
(make sure the meat is cold as this helps to keep the meatballs firm )
Try not to buy the already combination mix, as you are not sure of the percentage of each on the mix.
Oh, and it’s time to stir the gravy!
1 1/2 cups dry bread crumbs
A little milk (left over from making your braciole )
About a 1 cup of grated cheese
(for this I like romano cheese, as it has a little more of a kick )
3/4 cup fresh parsley
Small handful chopped mint, dried (this is the secret )
3-4 garlic cloves, chopped really, really fine
(listen, when you think it is chopped enough, I will be sitting on your shoulder saying, please darling, chop it a little more)
1 small onion, again chopped really, really fine
2 large eggs, beaten a little
Generous amount of Salt and Pepper
All purpose flour
1/4 - 1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 - 1/2 cup vegetable oil

• To make your meatballs, get a big bowl and add all the meat.

• Gently mix the meat together before you add any other ingredients.

• This is an important step so you have the different meats distributed equally.

• Now, sprinkle (don’t dump them all in one spot) the bread crumbs over the meat. Also the grated cheese, parsley, mint, garlic and onion.

• Beat together the eggs, milk and salt and pepper. If you add the salt and pepper to the egg mixture again it will be distributed equally.

• Pour this over the meat mixture and mix well with clean hands until everything is evenly blended.

• Don’t over mix and it is a good idea to stir the sauce before you get your hands dirty…

• Now, you have one huge meatball, but we need to roll smaller balls about 2-3 inches or whatever size you would like. It is easier to roll the meatballs if you dip your hands in a bowl of water. Roll nice firm balls.

• Dredge the meatballs in flour until they are lightly coated. Heat the oil (start with a 1/4 cup of each and see how far it comes up in the pan. Heat it over a medium high heat. Slip as many meatballs in the pan as will fit without….

• You guessed it…crowding the pan.

• Fry the meatballs turning them to make them golden brown on each side and firm. It is easier to work your meatballs in the pan by using 2 flat wooden spoons. Adjust the heat to prevent them from burning. Stir the sauce and add the meatballs to the gravy, BUT WAIT…this happens during the last hour of cooking along with the sausage…..did I happen to mention the sausage… that is coming up next!

• But first: one more thing about meatballs…some people like to use bread soaked in milk, water or stock. This is wonderful for them and it is their fantasy. For me, I call this the Meatball Glue and it produces a little heavier meatball.

• I like to use the bread crumbs and eggs as the glue so you have more meat. Don’t worry, if you use bread instead of bread crumbs, remember first….

• It is your recipe and your fantasy, but also there is no wrong way!

Okay Sausage…..This is not a must, but it sure adds flavor to the sauce.

Attention if you are using hot sausage ! Your gravy can become a little too spicy with the hot sausage and the chili, so adjust the chili to your liking. Usually I cut the sweet sausage in half and leave the hot sausage whole, so you can tell them apart and also the heat of the chili stays in the sausage more instead of the gravy.

So now you are at the final hour of cooking your meat is in getting …ohhh so tender , your braciole are in looking like little bundles of heaven. You have your meatballs ready to go … You are stirring the sauce, so it doesn’t burn on the bottom. You are now going to fry the sausage and add it to your gravy….

Okay the Sausage:

This is an easy step. Put your sausage in a heated pan with a little oil. Brown on all side. Then poke a few hole in the sausage and add the whole pan of goodies (yes, grease and all) to the pot.

Alternative would be to put all the sausages on the baking sheet and put in the oven for about 20 minutes. Then of course you poke the sausages and everything in the pot!

I think that if you are worried about fat and cholesterol……don’t make gravy!

NOW: After all your meat is added to the pot, uncover the pan and cook (yes, still stirring every now and then) over medium heat for about an hour. Now you must be very careful when stirring so you don’t break up your meatballs.

At this point, you should start to see dark puddles of oil forming on top of the sauce. Another tip if you don’t like the oil is to scoop it out with a coffee mug. Although, good gravy is measured by it having “ a fingers worth of oil” on top that you would then incorporate into the gravy. Note to self: This is also a good time to rip off a good chunk of bread and taste the sauce…..mmmm good isn’t it? Please no double dipping!

NEXT: Important tip…this is where you would correct the seasoning and add the rest of the oregano, basil and salt if needed. Remember, this is your fantasy to taste and season how like, but you are not done cooking it yet!

It needs to cook that last half hour,

So your meat should be tender, your sauce thick and flavorful and we know you continued to stir the sauce so it didn’t burn and you can keep your reputation as a good cook. AT this point you would scoop out a meatball and put it on a plate and break it in half to see this inside. THEN… put a little sauce over the meatballs halves and taste. Mmmm that’s good!

Now in the perfect world, you would shut the heat and leave the sauce on the stove top for one hour in peace. No stirring, just leave it to sit in peace. It will stay hot.

When you are ready to eat, boil the water, salt WELL….cook your rigatoni to al dente (no more). Put a little sauce in a pan and heat. Strain up your macaroni and put it right into the sauce pan and cook 30 sec. to coat pasta and serve in a heated bowl. You will also want to scoop out your meat. Remove strings from braciole with scissors, untie and fish out the cheese rind. Serve the meat on a separate platter always never on the same platter with the pasta and of course, you want to add a serving bowl of just gravy. Listen, you worked hard on it and you want everyone to enjoy it right? PS: Don’t forget the bowl of fresh grated

cheese too!

Well Darlings, that’s it…your done….Easy Breezy eh?

OH but one last tip….

You will want a good Italian Red wine. This is not a must, but I

HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT

Bravi…bravi….bravi…

CHef Alisa Malavenda

QUEEN-A-CUCINA

CHef Alisa Malavenda

QUEEN-A-CUCINA

This Sunday Gravy recipe is dedicated to my Dad, who taught me the joy of cooking and being together with the family for Sunday Dinner. This recipe makes a lot of gravy and meat...but hey, why not? The crazy, magical thing about Sunday Gravy is, it just gets better